Appalachia
North Carolina, Tennessee

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Susan's father was born and raised in the hills of North Carolina (before indoor plumbing and just after prohibition), so we had to stop and learn about the back country. It's a beautiful part of our nation with an interesting history and colorful people who have shown tremendous stamina and creativity for mountain living.

We enjoyed the gorgeous Great Smoky Mountains National Park, with its Appalachian Homestead and Mingus Mill. Called Shaconage, "the place of blue smoke" by the Cherokee because of the fog created by the moisture in the vegetation, the Smokies are home to more kinds of trees than in all of northern Europe and thousands of life forms. It is designated an International Biosphere Reserve and World Heritage Site, and has the biggest diversity of salamander species anywhere on the planet.

We had the good fortune of finding out about the Museum of Appalachia: A Living Mountain Village in time to schedule it into our travels. It is a must see for anyone wanting an in-depth look at life in the Appalachian mountains. We were very impressed with this very personal look at distant and recent past of the people of this region.

With the addition of stops to Blowing Rock and Grandfather Mountain, along with visiting long, lost relatives, our visit to Appalachia was complete. We're also including a stop at Mammoth Cave National Park in Kentucky.

Pictures (Click to enlarge)

Museum of Appalachia

John Rice Irwin's interest in the people of the Southern Appalachian mountains was sparked by his grandfather, who gave him relics from his ancestors three to four generations back and encouraged him to start a museum. He spent 25 years scouring the hills in search of items and the stories of the people who used them. Begun with one log house and two acres of land in the late 1960s, this living museum now consists of 65 acres and about 30 authentic wooden buildings containing tens of thousands of articles. It is truly an amazing and fascinating place.

 

Nearly each of the thousands of items has a story, many handwritten by James R. Irwin, including this reconstruction of Dr. Osborne's Medicine House and a mule shoe chair.

"There was a man who had a business of sending things on wagons with mules. When trucks took over, he quit his business and sold all his mules. He had a lot of mule shoes still, so he made furniture out of them, like this rocking chair."--Amanda

 

Music of the Hill Country

"There were some very strange instruments in the collection at the Hall of Fame, such as this fiddle made from the jaw bone of a mule. The owner was grateful for the mule helping his family survive, that he had a friend make a fiddle out of it. I also found a banjo made out of a ham can and a fiddle made out of a gourd. One of my favorites was a dulcimer-walking stick, made by an old man who had a bad hip. He had lots of parties that he played the dulcimer at, but he couldn't carry it very well so he made one that could be used as a walking stick."--Harrison

 

"We saw an old man who was playing the fiddle at the McClung house at the museum. He played many songs for us, like 'Skip to My Lou' and 'Orange Blossom Special'. The house is thought to have been used as a hospital during the Civil War."--Harrison

 

Blowing Rock, NC

"The legend of Blowing Rock is about a Chickasaw maiden who loved a Cherokee brave. When he felt he couldn't stay with her because he would let his people down, he jumped off Blowing Rock. The maiden prayed for him to return, and after a few days the wind blew him back into her arms."--Amanda

 

Grandfather Mountain, NC

The highest, and some claim the oldest, peak in the Blue Ridge Mountain Range, with 16 different ecological zones created by altitude, topography and weather. It is one of 324 United Nations International Biosphere Reserves and home to 42 rare and endangered species.

Amanda learned that, "Some of the rocks are more than 1 billion years old and Grandfather Mountain is 5964 feet tall."

 

Mammoth Cave National Park, KY

We only had time for one of the many tours that the Park Service guides through some of the 350 miles of passages of the longest cave system in the world. We learned some history of the cave, including early Native American explorers and Civil War mining by African American slaves for saltpeter used in gunpowder. What nature started carving out 10 million years ago is an amazing labyrinth enjoyed by millions today.

 
Recommend a face

John Rice Irwin

"I hold the strong conviction that the true breed of diminishing mountain folk of Southern Appalachia are among the most admirable people in the world. . . (They) abounded in gentleness, kindness, and compassion; and were without pretentiousness. I think those were their most prominent and, of course, most admirable traits. They were also imaginative, resourceful, and possessed much native acumen." --John Rice Irwin

Jim Russell (1925 - ) Musician

"You have a favorite song? I probably know it."

 

Trip Tips

On Wednesday and Saturday mornings until 10:00 the 11-mile loop road at Cades Cove in Great Smoky Mountains National Park is closed to cars and makes for a great bike outing. It's a bit challenging, with lots of hills, but the scenery is beautiful. If you get there early enough, you can take your time and rest at the many stops along the way, including old cabins and churches.

Camping at Great Smoky Mountains N.P. is a beautiful setting, but come prepared for primitive campsites. There is no running water at individual sites, no hookups for RVs and no showers. There are restrooms and communal water spigots, and that's about it. A creek runs through the Elkmont campground and lots of people were tubing down it. We felt like we were in a rain forest, with frequent June cloud bursts.

If you plan to visit Mammoth Cave National Park, it's a good idea to call ahead for tour reservations, especially if you go in the summer. The campground there is very nice, with full hook-ups and nice showers. Reserve a spot there in summer months.

Advertisement

The Museum of Appalachia holds an annual "Tennessee Fall Homecoming" the second full weekend in October (the 12th-15th for the year 2000) 9:00 am till dark. It's one of the biggest and most authentic festivals of its kind, with over 400 musicians and mountain folk, crafts and food.

Call the Museum for details.

 

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